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时间:2019年09月23日 22:48:25

Where does a collection begin? In the mind and imagination of a designer, of course, but also in a physical space, an insider sanctum that is almost never seen by consumers: the office and atelier. In many ways, these private spaces reflect the choices and points of view that inform fashion as much as any runway show. If in doubt, simply consider the outtakes from a series of behind-the-velvet-curtain s in which designers from New York to Paris invited The New York Times into their professional lives. First up: Jason Wu, who opened his namesake label in 2006 and shot to fame as the designer of Michelle Obama#39;s inaugural gowns, in his New York office. (This interview has been edited and condensed.)装系列起源于何处?当然是起源于设计师的头脑和想像,但它也起源于一个物理空间,一个消费者几乎从未见过的密室:办公室/工作室。从很多方面讲,这些私人空间和时装秀一样能反映时尚选择和观点。如果你对此还有怀疑,那就来看看这一系列幕后视频:纽约、巴黎等地的设计师们邀请《纽约时报》走进他们的职业生活。首先登场的是吴季刚(Jason Wu),他在2006年开创了自己的同名时装品牌,因两次为米歇尔·奥巴马(Michelle Obama)设计就职典礼礼而声名鹊起。当然,这两件礼都是在他的纽约工作室里设计的(下面的访谈经过剪辑和浓缩)。Q. How long has this been your professional home?问:你在这里工作多久了?A. I#39;ve been in this office three years. I always wanted to be in the garment district because I make 90 percent of my production here, so I thought it was really important that I was very close to the work, and am still close to the work, and part of New York. It feels really very New York to me. You have people hauling fabric at 8 a.m., and tons of delivery trucks, and loud sirens.答:我在这个办公室工作三年了。之前我一直想搬到装区,因为我90%的装都是在这里生产的,所以我觉得离工厂很近真的很重要,我现在依然离工厂很近,同时也还在纽约市里。在我看来,这里真的很有纽约的感觉。早上8点就有人在搬布料,有很多运货卡车和喧嚣的汽笛声。And you moved here because you outgrew your previous space?问:你搬到这里是因为以前的地方不够用了吗?My last studio was 3,000 square feet, and this one is 10,000 square feet, plus I have another floor, so it#39;s six times the size maybe. My previous office was very primitive. I had painted the walls myself. I did charcoal gray and white. It was very minimal, not because we wanted it to be minimal, but because at the time we couldn#39;t afford anything. With this office I got to kind of explore and play. When I first moved here, it had red walls with gray carpet. It was some sort of a trading firm and it was like 10 offices on this floor, so we had to take everything out.答:我的上一个工作室有3000平方英尺,这个有10000平方英尺,另外还有一层,所以面积大概是原来的六倍。我之前的办公室非常简陋。墙都是我自己刷的。我刷成了炭灰色和白色。它是极简风格的,不是我们想让它成为极简风格,而是我们当时没钱。而这个办公室能够让我探索和玩耍。我刚搬到这儿时,墙是红色的,地毯是灰色的。好像之前是个贸易公司,这一层大概有十个办公室,所以我们必须把所有东西都扔掉。How did you choose your personal corner in this space?问:在这个空间里,你怎么选中了这个私人角落?This nook felt like the most private place in the office. It just felt like it was calling my name.答:这个角落好像是整个办公室里最私密的地方。我感觉它在呼唤我的名字。Is it important to you to have a place to retreat?问:有个休憩之处对你来说重要吗?Yes. My daily life is a lot of hustling and bustling, and a lot of insane moments, especially during fashion week. But sometimes you need that moment of quietness where you put the drapes up and kind of like have five minutes of ;do not disturb.; Not that it really ever happens. But I do start the day everyday here with my coffee. Email, phone calls — it all happens here.答:重要。我每天的生活都忙忙碌碌,有很多让人抓狂的时刻,特别是时装周期间。但有时你需要一个安静的时刻,可以拉上帷幕,拥有五分钟不被打扰的时间。虽然这并没有真的发生过。不过我总是在这里开始新的一天,写邮件、打电话都是在这里。How did you choose your desk?问:你是怎么选择书桌的?This is a vintage desk. I like that it#39;s kind of classic and wood and not your typical work desk. A lot of me is very traditional. I like old bones and classic furniture, and this kind of represents me very well.答:这是个古董书桌。我喜欢古典和木头的感觉,不喜欢典型的办公桌。我很大程度上非常传统。我喜欢老东西和古典家具,这很好地代表了我。And the chairs?问:这些椅子呢?These chairs are from DDC [the design firm]. I used to pass by it all the time as a student at Parsons, seven or eight years ago, and the one thing I wanted was these chairs in black and white. I finally got them.答:这些椅子来自DDC设计公司。七八年前我在帕森斯学院就读时经常路过那里,那时候我想要的东西就包括这些黑白两色的椅子。现在我终于拥有它们了。What#39;s on the shelves?问:书架上有什么?A lot of books. I buy books every week. I guess I#39;m a hoarder of books, but I love the way the paper feels, and the way they look and smell. There is a little cat that represents good fortune. I#39;ve always had this affinity for cats, so my parents gave me that when I was little, and I kept it. There#39;s a little clock, because I#39;m always late, so it#39;s kind of a nice reminder.答:很多书。我每周都买书。我觉得我是书籍囤积狂,但是我很喜欢纸的触感,喜欢它们的样子和味道。这个小猫代表好运。我一直喜欢猫,所以小时候父母给了我这个,我一直留着它。还有个小钟,因为我总是迟到,所以它是个很好的提醒。Do you draw your collection out first, or do you design on the computer?问:你是先把装系列画出来,还是在电脑上设计?I do everything by hand. Computers are only for emails. I#39;m a very computerless person normally. I still cut and paste and use glue and marker. Working with the hand is still the most appealing to me.答:我什么都动手做。电脑只用来收发邮件。总的来说,我是个不用电脑的人。我仍然手动剪贴,使用胶水和记号笔。动手工作依然是我最喜欢的方式。Is that wall made of corkboard?问:那面墙是用软木板做成的吗?Uh-huh. I have the need to pin everything, so you#39;ll see there is corkboard everywhere in my studio. It#39;s like a larger version of the fridge magnet situation, where you just put everything you know. I collect things I like to look at it, and it#39;s kind of become my little history. I build the walls every season according to the collection. Sometimes I start with a person, sometimes with a color, sometimes with an idea and sometimes with a combination of the three. In two weeks this will probably explode with many more pictures. And then, the day after the show, I#39;ll take it all down. It#39;s so liberating. It#39;s kind of the cycle of life.答:嗯哼。我需要把所有东西都钉到墙上,所以你会发现我的工作室里到处是软木板。它像个大号冰箱贴板,我可以把我知道的所有东西都贴在上面。我收藏我喜欢观看的东西,它有点像我的小小历史。我每一季都根据装系列来构建这个墙面。有时是某个人启发了我,有时是一种颜色,有时是一个概念,有时是以上三者的结合。在两周时间内,这面墙很可能会铺满很多图片。在时装秀的第二天,我会把它们全揭下来。有一种释放的感觉。它像是生命的轮回。Afterward, do you keep all the research and pictures or throw them away?问:之后,你会保留所有这些研究和图片,还是把它们都扔掉?I file everything into folders by season. Again, I#39;m a bit of a hoarder. I like to keep things that I looked at or have been inspired by, because I think at some point you do want to go back and have a look. Those are moments that can#39;t really be replaced. Like the note wall.答:我每一季都把所有东西归档。这再次表明我有点像囤积狂。我喜欢保存我看过的或者给过我灵感的东西,因为我觉得将来的某个时刻,你会想回头看一看。那些时刻是不能被代替的。比如那面便签墙。The note wall?问:便签墙?I always loved the idea of having stationery. I#39;m in the habit of writing notes, and when people write me notes it feels too special to throw away. I#39;ve been very fortunate to be able to meet so many different kinds of people who I never thought would a) know who I am, or b) even care. So I decided to put the notes up one section of the cork wall and not recycle them because they are something that can never be replicated again, and that is very, very dear to me. It#39;s become a bit of a project. Those I don#39;t take down.答:我一直很喜欢用纸笔的感觉。我有写便条的习惯,有人给我写便条时,我会觉得很特别,不舍得扔。我觉得自己非常幸运,能遇到这么多不同的人,我以前根本没想到他们竟会知道我是谁,更别说去在乎我。所以我决定把这些便签贴在软木墙上的一块地方,再也不取下来,因为它们是不能被复制的,对我来说特别特别珍贵。它变得有点像一个艺术作品。那些东西我不会取下来。 /201409/330097

Research has revealed that people often make sweeping judgments of others based on the size and shape of their facial features.研究发现人们会根据面部特征和脸型大小等因素对人做出迅速的判断。For instance, individuals with feminine-looking or naturally happy faces are consistently thought of as more trustworthy.例如,那些长相女性化以及天生拥有快乐容颜的人让人觉得更值得信赖。While competence, dominance and friendliness are also associated with specific facial traits, including larger foreheads, prominent noses and strong chins.而那些具有宽大额头、高挺鼻梁以及突出下颔等面部特征的人,会让人感觉更有能力、更有配欲以及更不友好。And now researchers from Carnegie Mellon University have warned that ‘face-ism’ can lead people to make rash decisions, from voting for a particular politician to convicting someone of a crime.卡耐基梅隆大学的研究人员称,无论是在政治选举中的投票还是在法庭上要做的词,拜脸主义能让人做出草率、欠考虑的决定。Political candidates with naturally competent-looking faces, such as Barack Obama, were more likely to win elections than those who looked less competent.在政治选举中,那些具有天生较有能力的面孔如美国总统奥巴马,比具有较无能面孔的候选人,更容易胜出。While, #39;babyface’ features, characterised by a round face, large eyes and a small nose andchin are generally seen as a sign of incompetence. The reverse is true for strong, mature faces.而具有“娃娃脸”特征的面孔,如圆脸、大眼、小鼻子及细颊等,一般被视为无能的迹象。强壮、成熟的脸则为能力高强。Company chief executives who looked competent had a better chance of being hired by large successful companies, even when they performed no better than less competent-looking rivals, said the researchers.在应聘首席执行官时,那些面孔看来较有能力的人更容易被大公司选中,即使事实上他们的表现,并不比那些长相看起来无能的对手好到哪去。In the military, having a dominant, masculine face appeared to be a ticket to higher rank attainment.在军营中,有威风、阳刚脸孔的人,等于手握一张晋升将校的入场券。Elsewhere, research has shown that people considered to be untrustworthy and dishonest tend to have sunken cheeks, furrowed brows and eyes set close together.另外,有研究显示那些脸颊凹陷、眉头多皱纹以及眼距较窄的人常被认为是不诚实、不值得信赖的人。In contrast, a smiling face with prominent cheekbones and high eyebrows suggests trustworthiness and honesty.而相比之下,颧骨突出、眉毛上挑的爱笑面孔总给人诚实可信的感觉。Research suggests that ‘face-ism’ can be combated by providing more relevant information, such as the past behaviour of a political candidate, said the experts.研究人员称要避免以脸取人,可以在做判断时多考虑如政治候选人的过去行为等相关信息。 /201411/339758

Last week, The Los Angeles Times broke the news of the century. Or so it would seem by the shockwaves it sent through the Internet.上星期,《洛杉矶时报》(The Los Angeles)发布了这条世纪新闻。至少从互联网上激起的冲击波来看,堪称世纪新闻。From TMZ to The Wall Street Journal, media outlets of all kinds picked up the story, celebrities tweeted their disbelief, children’s reactions to the news went viral.从TMZ网站到《华尔街日报》(The Wall Street Journal),各种媒体竞相报道这件事,名人们纷纷发表推特表示难以置信,孩子们对这个消息的各种反应更是疯狂转发。The ubiquitous, blank-faced and, as the world assumed, feline cartoon character Hello Kitty is not in fact a cat, announced The Los Angeles Times. It’s a little girl named Kitty White.凯蒂猫(Hello Kitty)茫然的脸蛋无所不在,全世界都以为它是一只猫,但《洛杉矶时报》却宣布她不是猫,而是一个名叫凯蒂·怀特(Kitty White)的小女孩。Kitty, also shockingly, has an entire backstory: She is British, lives in London with her parents, has a twin, and is a perpetual third-grader.同样惊人的是,凯蒂还有一整套的身世:她是英国人,和爸爸妈妈住在伦敦,有双胞胎姊,永远都在上三年级。The Times es Christine R. Yano, an anthropologist from the University of Hawaii, who was preparing the written text for a retrospective of Hello Kitty art at the Japanese American National Museum. When fact-checking with Sanrio, the character’s mother company, she was “very firmly” corrected about Kitty’s identity.夏威夷大学人类学家克里斯汀·R·矢野(Christine R. Yano)正在为全美日裔国立物馆的凯蒂猫艺术回顾展撰写文字说明,《洛杉矶时报》引述了她的考。经过与凯蒂猫的母公司三丽鸥公司做事实核查,她“非常确定”地纠正了凯蒂猫的身份。“That’s one correction Sanrio made for my script for the show. Hello Kitty is not a cat. She’s a cartoon character. She is a little girl. She is a friend. But she is not a cat. She’s never depicted on all fours,” Ms. Yano tells The Times. “She walks and sits like a two-legged creature. She does have a pet cat of her own, however, and it’s called Charmmy Kitty.”“这是三丽鸥为我给展览写的草稿做的纠正。凯蒂猫不是猫。她是个卡通形象,是个小女孩,是个好朋友,但她不是猫。她从来没被画成用四条腿走路,”矢野在接受《洛杉矶时报》采访时说。“她走路和坐着的时候都是一个两条腿的生物。不过她有自己的宠物猫,名叫‘俏咪’(Charmmy Kitty)。”Carolina A. Miranda, who wrote the Times story, added: “I grew up with Hello Kitty everything and all I have to say is, MIND BLOWN.”《洛杉矶时报》该报道的作者卡洛琳娜·A·米兰达(Carolina A. Miranda)补充:“我和凯蒂猫的各种产品一起长大,我得说,这太震惊了。”The world shared her shock.整个世界和她一样震惊。“Cat-astrophic revelation purr-turbs Hello Kitty fans,” s a CNN headline.CNN报道题为“凯蒂猫粉丝罹遭猫界末日天启”。“The revelation blew up my Twitter and Facebook feeds, which had about 10 times more posts about Kittygate than about the fact that, at that very moment, Russia was invading the Ukraine,” writes Euny Hong at Quartz.“我的Twitter和Facebook被这个消息刷屏了,同一时刻俄罗斯入侵乌克兰,关于凯蒂猫的帖子是关于入侵事件的十倍还多,” 洪又妮在Quartz网站上写道。Dude. Hello Kitty is not a cat, nor has she ever been a cat. Help. Nothing makes sense anymore. — Gabe Bondoc (@gabebondoc) August 29, 2014伙计们。凯蒂猫不是猫,她根本就不是猫。救命啊。人生失去意义了。——盖比·邦多克(Gabe Bondoc, @gabebondoc),2014年8月29日I just found out Hello Kitty isn’t a cat. She does appear to have whiskers. I’m not judging. I’m just piecing this all together for myself. — Ellen DeGeneres (@TheEllenShow) August 29, 2014我刚发现凯蒂猫不是猫。可她确实有胡子。我不想评判什么。我只是为了自己而指出这些事实。——艾伦·德杰尼勒斯(Ellen DeGeneres, @TheEllenShow),2014年8月29日The singer Katy Perry rushed to reassure her fans of the feline identity of her cat and/or her mascot, Kitty Purry.歌手凯蒂·佩里(Katy Perry)紧急向粉丝确认,她的宠物猫兼吉祥物“凯蒂·噗里”(Kitty Purry)确实是猫。IT’S OKAY HELLO KITTY FANS, KITTY PURRY IS A CAT. — KATY PERRY (@katyperry) August 28, 2014好啦凯蒂猫的粉丝们,凯蒂·噗里是猫。——凯蒂·佩里(@katyperry),2014年8月28日。Because nothing seemed to be real anymore, people started questioning the species of other cartoon characters. What about the doglike character Goofy and his pet dog Pluto? Sponge Bob?现在好像没什么可信的事了。人们纷纷开始怀疑其他卡通形象属于什么物种。古菲和它的宠物普鲁托是吗?海绵宝宝是海绵吗?If Hello Kitty isn’t a cat then is Mickey Mouse not a mouse如果凯蒂猫都不是猫,那米老鼠还能是老鼠吗?——acee(@sica_forehead),2014年8月28日Colin Stokes at The New Yorker jokingly suggested that Mickey Mouse, Scooby-Doo and the entire Winnie-the-Pooh crew were, in fact, human. Winnie, Eeyore, Piglet and Tigger are just part of a “role play” created for Christopher Robin’s sake.《纽约客》(The New Yorker)的科林·斯托克斯(Colin Stokes)开玩笑称,米老鼠、大丹史酷比(Scooby-Doo)以及整个维尼熊(Winnie-the-Pooh)家族都是人。维尼熊、屹耳(Eeyore)、小猪皮杰(Piglet)和跳跳虎(Tigger)都是为了克里斯托弗·罗宾(Christopher Robin)而做的角色扮演。“Why exactly these four men choose to wear these costumes for Christopher is unclear, but it has been speculated that they may owe him money from gambling debts,” Mr. Stokes writes.“这四个人为什么要为了克里斯托弗穿上戏,目前尚不明确,但有人猜测他们可能是在中欠了他的钱,”斯托克斯写道。Alas, the information about Hello Kitty’s identity proved to be not entirely precise. Brian Ashcraft of gaming blog Kotaku contacted Sanrio to clarify. A representative told him: “Hello Kitty was done in the motif of a cat. It’s going too far to say that Hello Kitty is not a cat. Hello Kitty is a personification of a cat.” The representative used the Japanese word “gijinka,” which means “anthropomorphization” or “personification.”等一下,关于凯蒂猫身份的信息并不完全准确。游戏客Kotaku的作者布莱恩·阿什克拉夫特(Brian Ashcraft)联系三丽鸥核实信息。一位代表告诉他:“凯蒂猫是以猫为主题而创作的,如果说凯蒂猫不是猫就太过分了。凯蒂猫是一只猫的人格化。”这位代表使用了日语“gijinka”,就是“拟人化”或“人格化”的意思。In the end, Sanrio says that Kitty is a character, so doesn’t fall in the categories we would use for, say, live human beings. But why is her identity so important — even if mockingly important — to so many people who have long abandoned their Hello Kitty backpacks and pencil cases?最后,三丽鸥声称,凯蒂猫是一个卡通角色,所以不能用我们在生活中给人分类的方法去分类。但是她的身份为什么这样重要呢——开玩笑的重要也是重要——很多人明明早就不用凯蒂猫的背包和铅笔盒了。“I’m glad Sanrio is showing us that we can indeed see cartoon characters however we want, and that we don’t need to put human or non-human labels on them,” Kitty Tan, a 36-year-old marketing manager, tells the Straits Times of Singapore. She said the clarification made more sense, because as a human Kitty made no logical sense. “These characters are meant to make us happy; they should not confuse us.”“我很高兴三丽鸥告诉我们,我们可以按照自己希望的方式去看待卡通形象,而不必给它们贴上‘人类’或‘非人类’的标签,”36岁的市场经理凯蒂·谭(Kitty Tan)对新加坡的《海峡时报》(Straits Times)说。她说,三丽鸥后来的澄清更有意义,因为人类凯蒂猫根本不合逻辑。“这些卡通形象是用来让我们开心的,而不是让我们感到困惑。”Hello Kitty used to be two things — a blank, expressionless canvass for the viewer’s imagination, and a bit of an enigma. She is simple, she is alien, she is “delightfully inexplicable,” the comic author Scott McCloud tells Think Progress.凯蒂猫曾经意味着两件事——一张茫然的、没有表情的面孔,可以让观者尽情想象,此外还有种神秘色。她很简单,她很陌生,她有种“令人愉悦的说不清道不明”,漫画创作者斯科特·麦克克劳德(Scott McCloud)对Think Progress网站如此说道。“In contrast to expressive American characters such as Mickey Mouse and Garfield, Hello Kitty doesn’t show emotions, and the simplicity has attracted fans from children to street fashion devotees,” writes Mari Yamaguchi for The Associated Press.“和米老鼠以及加菲猫这些表情丰富的美国卡通形象相比,凯蒂猫没什么表情,这种简单能吸引从孩子到街头时尚爱好者在内的大量粉丝,”山口真理为美联社撰文写道。Asked about the clarification from Sanrio, Ms. Yano, the anthropologist who dropped the bombshell in the first place, said the character’s identity should be irrelevant: “Is she a cat, is she a girl, in Japanese terms, I really feel, it doesn’t matter. What I think is that Hello Kitty becomes a prompt for the imagination.”被问及三丽鸥的澄清时,最早引发了这场大爆炸的人类学家矢野说,这个形象的身份其实无关紧要:“她是猫也好,是小女孩也好,我觉得从日语的角度而言真的并不重要。我觉得凯蒂猫是令人天马行空的激励物。”Mr. McCloud says that there is more to bringing a character to life than just executing the actual drawing. “It’s a collaborative process of conjuring.” He suggests that there is something valuable about questioning our classifications and asking whether she is a cat. “Is she anything, other than this weird, astral projection of our idea of other consciousness?”麦克克劳德说,为卡通形象赋予生命不只是把这个形象画出来这么简单。“这是一种魔术般的综合过程。”他说,质疑我们对卡通形象的分类,去思考她究竟是不是一只猫,这其实是有价值的。“除了我们的下意识所创造出的奇异的灵体投射,她是否还有更多涵义呢?”This veil of mystery has been lifted, the character has been defined. And it sent the world reeling.神秘的帷幕已被掀起,角色已被定义。整个世界都为之摇晃。 /201409/328399


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