原标题: 广州番禺妇科哪家好光明报
A Cornell-educated artist and sculptor has come up with a highly bizarre, but probably very effective, #39;personal space#39; creating dress.一位康奈尔大学的艺术家和雕刻家设计出了一个非常奇怪但或许又十分有效的能创造“私人空间”的连衣裙。Kathleen McDermott, who is currently based in Hong Kong, designed the motorized dress after experiencing repeated instances of men crowding her on public transportation networks.目前居住在香港的麦克德莫特,在多次经历公共交通网络的拥挤后设计出了这个伸缩自如的连衣裙。The ruffled pink and white creation doesn#39;t spring out suddenly in the fashion of an umbrella, as it looks like it might, but rather senses a looming presence, and slowly expands outwards.尽管长得挺像伞,但这个带褶皱的粉色加白色连衣裙并不会像伞一样突然撑开,而是在感受到周围的压力后缓慢向外展开。#39;So I began to look for ways women could take more ownership over their personal space in public.#39;“因此我开始寻求一些方法,可以让女性在公共场合保持一定的私人空间。”Ms McDermott built the dress herself and used #39;proximity sensors#39; to identify when a lurker gets too close for comfort, and plastic scaffolding within the garment to enable the hemline to expand.麦克德莫特女士亲手做出了这个连衣裙,她在裙子里用了“近距离传感器” 以防有不轨之徒过分靠近,并且在衣下安装了塑料架,确保裙边可以展开扩大。Most of us have experienced unwanted leering on the subway, but plenty have dealt with worse in busy, thriving cities around the world.大部分人在地铁里都有过被眼神挑逗的不愉快经历,但是在很多忙碌发达的城市里,很多人还遭遇过更糟糕的事。A survey two weeks ago conducted by the Los Angeles Metro system, which covers trains and buses, revealed that one in five riders say they#39;ve been sexually harassed in the past month.洛杉矶地铁系统在两周前进行的一个调查显示,在火车和公交上,每五个乘客中就有一个在上月受到过性骚扰。In Tokyo, the problem has become so alarming that their Metro system has introduced #39;women-only#39; cars on their trains during rush hour.在东京,这个问题已经严重到公交系统引进专为女性乘客在高峰期使用的公交。 /201406/304616

When Lady Gaga releases a catchy new single, it quickly goes around the world. Now scientists have discovered the same thing happens with the songs of another exotic creature – the humpback whale. The mammals become fixated on new tunes just like people do, and the most popular original whale songs sp globally like hit singles. Number one artist? Humpback whales become fixated on new tunes. The most popular original whale songs sp around the world like hit singles当“闻名遐迩”的音乐奇才嘎嘎发行自己的又一张新专辑,再一次“轻而易举”地将自己的音乐享誉全球的时候,科学家惊喜地发现同样的音乐天才不仅仅局限于人类这个物种,在海底的鲸鱼也同样有“发行音乐专辑”并“唱歌”的权利。科学家还实,这一类哺乳动物(座头鲸)可以像人类一样“有音调” “带感情”地唱歌,据悉,座头鲸是鲸类中最大者,成体平均体长雄性为12.9米,雌性为13.7米,体重25~35吨。其前缘具不规则的瘤状突如锯齿状,口大,进食时上下颌间特殊韧带结构可使口张开90度的角度。The discovery has stunned marine experts who say it is the first time such a large, ‘population wide cultural exchange’ has been seen in the animal kingdom. Male humpback whales are famed for the loud, long and complex songs they make during the mating season. Scientists are unsure why the males sing. Some believe it is a way of advertising themselves to females, others that it allows migrating whales to stay in contact。这一发现彻底震惊了很多海洋专家,让他们“大开眼界”,对于鲸鱼发行音乐专辑事宜,他们认为这是在生物物种,不同生物之间最大的一次 “文化交流”活动。雄性座头鲸以“嗓门大”“身型长”“擅长复杂歌曲”闻名于世界。专家称,特别在交配季节的雄性座头鲸们可以更能展现、展示他们的“歌唱才华”。然而,对于鲸鱼为什么会唱歌的原因,科学家至今还未能总结出个什么结论,有一些人是认为这是雄性座头鲸为了吸引雌性座头鲸做出的“雄性荷尔蒙举动”,也有一些人认为这是为了与“迁徙”举家搬迁的“移民鲸鱼”联系感情的一种方式。Each song lasts for ten to 20 minutes and the males can sing continuously for 24 hours. At any one time, all the males in a population sing the same song. But a study, published in the journal Current Biology, shows that this song changes over time and sps around the oceans. Dr Ellen Garland, of Queensland University, said: ‘Our findings reveal cultural change on a vast scale. Songs move like cultural ripples from one population to another, causing all males to change their song to a new version.’据悉,鲸鱼们唱歌课不轻松,一首曲子至少能维持20分钟,而且雄性座头鲸常常能唱歌长达24小时。科学家发现,在任何时间,雄性座头鲸都会“演唱”同一首曲子。在一本期刊《当代生物学》发表的研究上指出,这首座头鲸唱的曲子在全世界通用,在任何海域都能听得到。可谓在鲸鱼界“不分地域”“享誉全球”的曲子。有专家Dr Ellen 说:“我们的研究目的是表明一个道理,那就是文化交流是在任何一个物种之间都存在的。” /201403/282954

NOT LONG AFTER EMILIO PUCCI launched his line of kaleidoscopic patterns and slinky, body-conscious jersey knits in 1947, he chose his home as his base of operations: the Palazzo Pucci, a Renaissance palace in the center of Florence. Owned by the family since they were political advisers to the Medicis in the 1400s, the palace boasts precious paintings by Botticelli and other Old Masters, as well as an atelier, boutique and company headquarters. For decades, Pucci#39;s archives-which include 18,000 print variations, 15,000 scarves, 1,000 bolts of vintage fabric and 200 custom fabric colors-were stored in a cantina beneath the property. But the designer#39;s fashion legacy was not secure in the ancient subterranean space, and Laudomia, Emilio#39;s daughter who took over when he died in 1992, knew it.1947年,埃米利奥#12539;璞琪(Emilio Pucci)发布了以万花筒般图案和紧身修身针织衫为特色的同名品牌。不久后,他选择自己的家作为品牌的运营基地:位于佛罗伦萨中心的复兴时期宫殿Palazzo Pucci。这处宅邸从璞琪家族15世纪担任美第奇家族(Medicis)的政治顾问起就为其所有,拥有波提切利(Botticelli)及其他绘画大师的珍贵画作,也是一座画室、精品店以及公司总部的所在地。璞琪的档案包括18,000种印花图案、15,000条围巾、1,000匹复古面料和200种定制面料颜色,这些都存在这座宫殿地下的酒吧里。但这位设计师的时尚遗产在这个古老的地下空间里并不安全,埃米利奥的女儿劳多米亚(Laudomia)心知肚明。她是在1992年父亲去世时接管这里的。Laudomia, now the brand#39;s image director and deputy chairman, remembers the devastating flood of the Arno River in 1966, which killed more than a hundred people and destroyed countless works of Florentine art, architecture and literature. It also wiped out the cantina. #39;The water was two meters deep. My father lost everything. You wake up and suddenly everyone is in their galoshes trying to save pieces,#39; says Laudomia, who continues to live on the Palazzo#39;s top floor with her husband, three children and her mother, Marchesa Cristina Pucci di Barsento, Emilio#39;s widow. Though the company replenished after that disaster, since then, flash flooding has periodically steeped the Pucci archives in swampy water. When it happened again in 2012, she realized her heritage was at risk.劳多米亚现任该品牌的形象总监及副董事长。她记得1966年阿诺河(Arno River)那场毁灭性的洪灾,100多人不幸遇难,无数佛罗伦萨的艺术、建筑和文学作品被毁。这个酒吧也未幸免。劳多米亚说:“水有两米深。我父亲失去了一切。一早醒来,突然所有人都穿着橡胶套鞋在试图抢救东西。”劳多米亚现在仍和丈夫、三个孩子,还有她的母亲──埃米利奥的遗孀Marchesa Cristina Pucci di Barsento──住在Palazzo的最顶层。虽然公司在那场灾难后补充了档案,但从那以后,洪灾会周期性地令璞琪的藏品浸没在泥泞的洪水里。2012年再度遭到侵袭后,劳多米亚意识到自己的遗产处于危险之中。#39;If I wanted to pass on what the company has created, I had to do something about it,#39; says Laudomia. #39;Why let it die? And why by a flood, when I have this whole place in front of me?#39;劳多米亚说:“如果我想把公司创造的东西传下去,就得采取点措施。为什么要让它死掉?既然我面前有一个完整的地方,为什么要让它被洪水吞没?”This whole place is Granaiolo, the family#39;s sprawling 150-acre country estate in Castelfiorentino, 45 minutes southwest of Florence. Starting in the fall of 2012, Laudomia began to transfer most of the company#39;s vast archives to the countryside, and built a laboratory for fashion students to study fabric technology, design and history.这个地方就是Granaiolo,璞琪家族位于Castelfiorentino的占地150英亩(约60公顷)的乡村庄园,在佛罗伦萨西南方向驱车45分钟距离处。2012年秋季开始,劳多米亚开始将公司庞大档案库的大部分藏品转移到乡下,并修建了一座实验室,供时装专业学生学习面料技术、设计和历史。#39;I have more than enough space here, and I want to share it,#39; she says. #39;People used to have so much time to explore and develop things. My father had this time. But young creatives today don#39;t-the business rules have become so cutthroat. So I really hope this can be a place of reflection, study and creativity.#39;她说:“在这里我有足够的空间,我想跟人分享。人们从前有那么多时间探索和开发新东西。我父亲就有这种时间。但如今年轻的创意人没有──商业规则变得太残酷了。所以我真心希望这里能成为一个反省、学习和获得创意的地方。”At Granaiolo, the Pucci family legacy runs back to the 13th century, when their noble forebears built an imposing fortress atop the honey-colored land. Over time came a convent graced with frescoes, stables and farmhouses for the peasants who worked the fields for wheat-#39;Granaiolo#39; means #39;wheat barn#39;-wine grapes and tobacco.在Granaiolo,璞琪家族的产业可追溯至13世纪,当时他们的贵族祖先在这片蜜色的土地上建造了一座壮观的城堡。后来又有了一座壁画装饰的修道院,还有为在地里种小麦──Granaiolo意思是“小麦谷仓”──葡萄和烟草的农民修建的马厩和农舍。The income from Granaiolo powered the family#39;s concerns until the early 20th century, when Emilio#39;s grandfather built the town#39;s train station. The young Pucci, a marchese by birth, enrolled as a fighter pilot in World War II before launching his lucrative fashion career. Granaiolo remained a working gentleman#39;s farm up until the 1980s, when it finally ceased agricultural operations. By then, Pucci had become a global brand, and the family didn#39;t need Granaiolo for support.到20世纪初,Granaiolo的收入一直维系着璞琪家族的实力,当时埃米利奥的祖父修建了镇里的火车站。出生时就是侯爵的年轻的璞琪在二战期间入伍做了飞行员,后来才开始他利润丰厚的时装事业。Granaiolo一直是一座农场,直到上世纪80年代才最终停止了农业经营。那时璞琪已经成为一个全球性品牌,璞琪家族还不需要Granaiolo的持。WHEN EMILIO FELL ILL in 1989, Laudomia stepped into the CEO job at age 29. After Emilio#39;s death, she took over both the business and creative sides. But Laudomia-who had worked only for her father, and in production for Hubert de Givenchy for three years-found it a challenge.1989年,埃米利奥患病,劳多米亚在29岁的年纪担任了首席执行长的职务。埃米利奥去世后,商业和创意两方面都由她接管。但劳多米亚发现这是个挑战。她只为自己的父亲、以及纪梵希(Hubert de Givenchy)的生产部门工作过。#39;This was our weekend hobby,#39; says Laudomia of the renovation project. They tasked regional artisans with laying floors in handmade terra-cotta and pitching roofs of reclaimed wood. The workers restored the fortress#39;s blue-gray facade of local pietra serena stone, original iron grates on the windows and massive wooden stable doors. The main house, its upper guesthouse and pool will remain the family#39;s private retreat, but the property#39;s once crumbling agricultural buildings have been reimagined as a lightly modernized version of themselves. As the restoration progressed, treasures came to light, like a graceful arcade of columns in the old winery, and some 16th-century paintings Laudomia found hidden in the granary.劳多米亚谈到庄园的翻修工程时说:“这是我们周末的爱好。”他们让当地的工匠用手工陶土铺地板,用再生木材盖屋顶。工人们修复了当地城堡塞茵那石(pietra serena stone)垒砌的蓝灰色外 、窗户原有的铁门和巨大的马厩木门。主屋、楼上的客房和泳池仍然会是家族的私人度假地,但那些曾经摇摇欲坠的农用建筑变得更现代了。随着翻修工程的进行,许多宝藏开始呈现出来,比如旧酒庄里优雅的圆柱拱廊,还有劳多米亚发现的藏在谷仓里的16世纪画作。#39;We have a richness and a heritage,#39; she says of Pucci#39;s history. #39;It#39;s my opportunity to make it into something special. More and more with globalism, celebrity and mass fashion, you need this weight and substance, or you turn into any other brand.#39;她谈到璞琪的历史时说:“我们有丰厚的底蕴和悠久的传统。这是我让我们的历史变得特别的机会。随着全球主义、明星效应和大众时尚的普及,我们需要这种厚度,否则就和别的品牌没差别了。”#39;Archives are the soul of our brands, but it#39;s a privilege when you have someone who knows the heritage better than anyone,#39; says LVMH fashion group CEO Pierre-Yves Roussel.路易威登(LVMH) 时装集团首席执行长皮尔-伊芙#12539;罗塞尔(Pierre-Yves Roussel)说:“时装档案是我们品牌的灵魂,但是拥有一个比任何人都了解品牌传统的人是一个优势。”#39;It#39;s a hell of a job,#39; adds Roussel. #39;It becomes a logistical challenge to store and maintain these fragile things. The Givenchy archives are in the basement of Avenue George V, and most other [LVMH brands] are outside Paris in temperature-controlled warehouses. This is very unique.#39;罗塞尔说:“这是个大工程。存放和维护这些脆弱的东西在后勤上是个挑战。纪梵希的档案是在乔治五世大道(Avenue George V)上的地下室,其他大多数品牌〔路易威登品牌〕都在巴黎郊外的温控仓库里。这是很独特的。”Luckily, Granaiolo#39;s immense barn turned out to be a perfectly arid place to store and display all the vintage jersey that was #39;so fine, you could#39;ve folded the dresses down and put them in a cigarette box,#39; says Rome-based fashion historian and curator Enrico Quinto. #39;Emilio Pucci was an absolute trailblazer-he industrialized Italian fashion by introducing a range of y-made sizes, which was an unheard-of idea in Europe. Dior could have repetitions made, but Emilio had 10 sizes and 10 colors of one design. He became the most influential and powerful designer in Italy.#39;幸运的是,Granaiolo的大谷仓成了存放和陈列复古针织衫的完美的地方。罗马时装历史学家及策展人恩里科#12539;昆托(Enrico Quinto)说,那些复古针织衫“太精致了,都可以叠起来放在烟盒里”。埃米利奥#12539;璞琪是一个绝对的开拓者──他通过引进在欧洲闻所未闻的一系列成衣尺码将意大利的时装工业化。迪奥(Dior)本来可以仿制,但埃米利奥每种设计都有10个尺码和10种颜色。他成为了意大利最有影响力和最有实力的设计师。Laudomia selected some of her father#39;s designs to be displayed on vintage mannequins, as well as work by past creative directors Julio Espada, Christian Lacroix and Matthew Williamson, and Pucci#39;s current designer Peter Dundas. Another two rooms, once filled with wine bottles and tractors, are now lined with neoclassical furniture, historic armoires from Pucci#39;s #39;50s Florence boutique and newly built oak closets organized by garment and decade. Some of the armoires contain a rainbow of garments in the company#39;s custom Pantone colors so synonymous with Pucci#39;s vibrant look: Rosso 02 335 or Bordeaux 02 456 and so on. #39;Armani had his beiges. These colors are my father#39;s,#39; says Laudomia. #39;I call it the alphabet of Pucci.#39;劳多米亚选了她父亲的一些设计在复古道具模特上陈列,还有历届创意总监朱利奥#12539;埃斯帕达(Julio Espada)、 克里斯汀#12539;拉克鲁瓦(Christian Lacroix)和马修#12539;威廉姆森(Matthew Williamson) 、以及璞琪现任设计师彼得#12539;邓达斯(Peter Dundas)的作品。另外两个曾经满是酒瓶和拖拉机的房间现在摆放着新古典主义家具,璞琪50年代佛罗伦萨专卖店的大衣橱,还有新做的按装和年代整理的衣橱。有些大衣橱里有按照公司定制的Pantone色制作的五颜六色装,和璞琪活力四射的设计如出一辙:Rosso 02 335、Bordeaux 02 456等等。劳多米亚说:“阿玛尼(Armani)有他的米黄色。这些颜色是我父亲的。我称之为璞琪的字母表。”Outside, the sweeping lawn features a staircase by landscape designer Niccolo Grassi-a nod, in a way, to the dramatic stepped-grass garden that the late Gae Aulenti designed for the fortress in the #39;60s. Laudomia also planted palm trees amongst the existing cypress and olive trees #39;for a touch of kitsch.#39; Stables have metamorphosed into a dining room for 20-the number of bedrooms available in the smattering of converted peasant houses on the hillside.庄园外面,宽阔的草坪上有一个景观设计师尼科洛#12539;格拉斯利(Niccolo Grassi)设计的楼梯──在一定程度上是在向已故的加埃#12539;奥伦蒂(Gae Aulenti)于60年代为城堡所设计的夸张的阶梯式草坪花园致敬。劳多米亚还在现有的柏树和橄榄树中间种了棕榈树,为的是营造“一点世俗感”。马厩变身成为可容纳20人的餐厅──山腰上的几间改造农舍也有20间卧室。Visitors can unwind in a second pool or at the gym, where exercise machines hum within the restored brick walls and wood beams of a former livestock stall. The relics of the old farm are juxtaposed against slick design throughout, including Pucci carpets, modern Christian Liaigre furniture, Cappellini couches covered in Pucci terry cloth and a tapestry based on a Pucci print that Laudomia commissioned from the Italian artist Francesco Vezzoli-part of an ongoing project to have contemporary artists create works inspired by the archive. #39;I want a mix of art, fashion, design,#39; explains Pucci, #39;so I#39;m doing Granaiolo in a very versatile way.#39;游客可在泳池或健身房里放松,健身房以前是禽畜舍,健身器材在修复的砖 和梁木里嗡嗡作响。旧农场的遗迹与整体的流畅设计并存,后者包括璞琪的地毯、现代的Christian Liaigre家具、覆盖有璞琪毛巾布的Cappellini沙发,还有一块按照劳多米亚委托意大利艺术家弗朗西斯科#12539;维佐利(Francesco Vezzoli)设计的璞琪印花图案制作的挂毯──这是一个正在进行的项目的一部分,即邀请当代艺术家创作灵感来自璞琪档案的作品。璞琪解释说:“我想要艺术、时尚和设计融合的东西,所以我把Granaiolo弄得很多样化。”Aly Pucci has hosted several educational events, including two Journ谷es Particuli豕res: LVMH-sponsored open house events. Two groups of students from Polimoda, the Florentine fashion school where Pucci serves on the board, have come to study sewing and print design. Laudomia is hoping to extend the educational activities to international fashion schools for longer visits.璞琪已经举办过多项教育活动,包括两场Journees Particulieres:路易威登赞助的开放参观活动。来自佛罗伦萨时装学校Polimoda的两群学生来到这里学习缝纫和图案设计。劳多米亚希望将教育活动扩展至国际时装学校,并将学习时间延长。璞琪是该校董事会的成员。#39;We should encourage students to relate to archives,#39; says Laudomia, who believes such study will teach young designers to appreciate their fashion forebears. At Granaiolo, she sees a future where the next generation will find a place to rest, recharge and, most importantly, find inspiration for innovative fashion. #39;Heritage means a lot,#39; she says, #39;but only if you pull it out and make it alive. Otherwise it#39;s just another dead museum.#39;劳多米亚说:“我们应该鼓励学生认同和欣赏这些档案。”她认为这样的学习会教会年轻的设计师欣赏他们的时尚前辈。在Granaiolo,她认为在未来,下一代人会找到一个休息、充电的地方,最重要的是找到创造性时装的灵感。她说:“传统的意义很重大,但只有把它拿出来让它重生才可以。否则只会成为又一个死亡物馆。”#39;The level of what I was giving was never enough. People wanted more. Colette wanted my stuff. In 1998, I brought the first collection to Milan to show. I had just lost my brother, and I had just had my son. I was relaunching the company. I managed to hold it together by chance,#39; says Laudomia. #39;And I thought to myself, I don#39;t want to be in that situation. So I started playing by the rules. I hired a brand strategist and some designers, and while I was running around, LVMH banged on the door.#39;劳多米亚说:“我付出的程度远远不够。人们想要更多。柯莱特时尚店(Colette)想要我的东西。1998年,我带着第一个系列时装去米兰走秀。那时我刚失去我的哥哥,而且刚有了儿子。我开始重新启动公司,没想到慢慢坚持了下来。我对自己说,我不想处在那种环境里。所以我开始遵守规则。我聘请了一位品牌策略师和一些设计师。在我东奔西跑的时候,路易威登找到了我。”By 2000, Laudomia had navigated the sale of 67-percent interest in the company to LVMH, which still owns it (sales figures are not public), but she retained ownership of the extensive archive. #39;Archives weren#39;t instrumental to the business in the way they are today,#39; she says. #39;But it was never a question that I would sell it. You don#39;t sell your family#39;s memories.#39; The freedom has allowed Laudomia and her financier husband, Alessandro Castellano, to take on Granaiolo#39;s transformation, which they have personally funded.到2000年,劳多米亚将公司67%的股权转给了路易威登,但她保留了巨大档案库的所有权。目前路易威登依然持有股权(销售数据未公开)。她说:“在过去,档案对时装业的意义没有现在重大。但我绝不会把它们卖掉。家族的记忆是不可能卖掉的。”这种自由让劳多米亚和从事金融业的丈夫亚历山德罗#12539;卡斯特利亚诺(Alessandro Castellano)得以对Granaiolo进行改造。费用由他们个人承担。 /201408/320691ROME — For 136 years, the Honor Guard to the Royal Tombs of the Pantheon has stood watch over the mortal remains of the Savoy kings who formerly ruled Italy, paying a discreet, sober tribute to a once-powerful dynasty in recognition of its role in unifying the country.罗马——136年来,万神殿皇陵仪仗队一直守卫着曾经统治意大利的萨伏依王朝国王的遗骸,向这个曾经不可一世的王朝表达朴素而庄重的敬意,纪念他们在国家统一过程中扮演的角色。Standing ramrod straight at the sides of the massive mausoleums commemorating King Vittorio Emanuele II and his son Umberto I, they are meant to remain silent, though more often than not they end up fielding questions from inquisitive tourists.仪仗队卫兵笔直地站在维托里奥·埃马努埃莱二世(King Vittorio Emanuele II)和儿子翁贝托一世(Umberto I)宏伟的陵墓两侧,他们本应该保持沉默,但却常常要应付好奇的游客提出的各种问题。That is, when they are present. Despite recent efforts to attract new members, the ranks of the Honor Guard have grown thin, and the tombs are often unattended.但他们也并不总在那里。尽管最近一直在努力吸引新成员,仪仗队的人数仍在减少,皇陵常常无人看护。The guards themselves attribute the decline to the waning commitment to the Savoy kings among a younger generation of Italians who they say have forgotten values like patriotism. Others, however, point to the checkered history of the former royal family, and the troubles of their current heirs, which have done more to inspire tabloid headlines than passion for the family#39;s long role in Italy.仪仗队自身把原因归结为,萨伏依国王在意大利年轻一代心目中的地位在降低,他们说,这些年轻人已经忘记了爱国主义这样的价值观。而另外一些人则将其归因于这个曾经的皇室家族盛衰无常的历史,以及他们如今的后代惹出的种种麻烦,后者更多时候成了八卦报纸的头条,对家族在意大利的漫长历史却没多大兴趣。King Vittorio Emanuele II, who died in 1878, played an essential part in founding modern Italy, and his memorial at the Pantheon in Rome is dedicated to the ;Father of the Homeland.; It also houses Umberto I, who was assassinated in 1900. Umberto#39;s wife, Queen Margherita of Savoy, is buried next to him.逝世于1878年的维托里奥·埃马努埃莱二世对现代意大利的建立起到了关键作用,万神殿里的埃马努埃莱二世纪念馆将他称作“祖国之父”。万神殿里还安放着1900年被暗杀的翁贝托一世的遗体。翁贝托的妻子——萨伏伊皇后玛格丽特(Queen Margherita)——就葬在他旁边。But the royal family was tainted for supporting the rise of Fascism in the years between the world wars, and in 1938 King Vittorio Emanuele III signed racial laws that discriminated against Jews. The king eventually dismissed Mussolini in 1943, but after signing an armistice with the Allies, he and his government fled German-occupied Rome for Brindisi, in Puglia, effectively leaving Italy#39;s troops leaderless.但该皇室家族却因在两次世界大战之间持法西斯主义的崛起而名声受损,维托里奥·埃马努埃莱三世还在1938年签署了歧视犹太人的种族法案。这位国王最终在1943年解除了墨索里尼的职务,但在与盟军签署停火协议后,他和当局政府逃离了德军占领的罗马,前往普利亚大区的布林迪西,致使意大利军队群龙无首。The male descendants of the family were formally exiled as punishment in 1948, two years after Italians voted in a referendum to abolish the monarchy in favor of a republican government. That ban was lifted in 2002, but the family#39;s reputation never fully recovered.1948年,意大利公投废除君主制、选择共和政府两年后,这个家族的男性子嗣被正式驱逐作为惩戒。驱逐令在2002年被取消,但家族的名誉从未彻底恢复。Even now, some visitors to the Royal Tombs of the Pantheon ;come to insult us,; said Giuseppe Persico, a police officer from Velletri, a town of about 50,000 in the Lazio region, as he carried out Honor Guard service on a hot August morning. ;They think that Italy today is better than it was before,; he added disdainfully.即使现在,有些参观万神殿的游客还“来侮辱我们”,一名正在仪仗队中值岗的朱塞佩·佩西克(Giuseppe Persico)说道,八月的早晨天气炎热。他是一名来自韦莱特里(Velletri)的警察,该镇位于拉齐奥区,人口五万。“他们认为意大利今天比过去要好,”他轻蔑地说。Those attracted to the Honor Guard are apt to overlook the less-savory parts of the family#39;s history, or are drawn to what they see as the larger, enduring values that they believe are represented in the institution of the monarchy. Many lament that young Italians feel little sense of civic duty.被仪仗队所吸引的人们往往忽略了家族历史中不那么光的篇章,或者是受到了在他们看来君主制所代表的更宏大、永恒的价值观的驱使。许多人抱怨称,年轻的意大利人没有公民责任感。;Believing in values like patriotism is fairly atypical among people my age,; acknowledged Carmelo Raia, 22, a law student who last month traveled to Rome from Agrigento, Sicily, to stand guard in the Pantheon. Like most other new recruits, Mr. Raia labels himself a ;history buff; who was drawn to the guards because of their emphasis on national identity, history and tradition. ;My contemporaries don#39;t even know the meaning of the word patriotism,; he said.“在我这个年龄的人中,信仰爱国主义这类价值观是另类,”22岁的卡梅洛·拉亚(Carmelo Raia)说。拉亚是法律系学生,上个月从西西里岛的阿格里真托来到罗马守卫万神殿。就像多数其他新兵一样,拉亚说自己是一个“历史迷”,被仪仗队的士兵所感召,因为他们重视民族身份、历史和传统。“我的同代人根本不知道爱国主义这个词的意思,”他说。For others, the values embodied in the Savoy dynasty are less than noble, and there is little sentiment in Italy for any kind of restoration.对于其他人来说,萨伏伊王朝代表的价值观谈不上崇高,意大利也没有任何要复兴这种价值的意思。The guards are commendable, because ;right or wrong they believe in the ideals of the institution,; said Lorenzo Del Boca, an essayist who has written extensively about the royal family. ;But we only had disasters from the House of Savoy. With the exception of Umberto II, who was king for 40 days, there is little to say that is positive,; he said.这些士兵值得称赞,因为“不管怎样,他们是相信那个制度的理想,”洛伦索·德尔卡(Lorenzo Del Boca)撰写过大量关于这个皇室家族的文章。“但我们从萨伏伊家族只得到了灾难。除了担任国王40天的翁贝托二世,没有什么积极的东西可言,”他说。Trying to attract recruits, the Honor Guard relaxed its requirement that members belong to the military, and gradually opened to civilians. The spike in membership — topping 5,000 guards — peaked in 2006, a few years after the Savoy male heirs were allowed to return to Italy.为了吸引新成员,仪仗队放宽了要求,成员不必来自军方,逐渐对平民开放。成员最多的时候——超过5000名士兵——是在2006年,在萨伏伊的男性子嗣被允许回到意大利的几年之后。But numbers have dropped since then, in part because of the prince#39;s legal troubles, but also because the novelty of the monarchy#39;s return wore off. Today, the average age of the guards is between 50 and 60, and only about 5 percent are under 30.但在此之后,这个数字出现了下滑,一个原因是这位王子在法律上惹下的麻烦,同时也因为皇室后裔回归祖国的新鲜感已经退去。今天,仪仗队士兵的平均年龄在50到60岁之间,只有约5%年龄在30岁以下。A youth honor guard — the Giovane Guardia, or the Young Guard — took root, ;but they#39;ve never been that numerous,; said Capt. Ugo d#39;Atri, a retired navy officer who has tried to broaden the appeal of the Honor Guard since he was named its president in 2003. ;And this I regret.;一个青年仪仗队(Giovane Guardia)开始形成,但队长乌戈·达特里(Ugo d#39;Atri)说“人数一直不多”。达特里是一名退役海军军官,2003年被任命为队长以来,他一直试图增加仪仗队的吸引力。“这让我感到遗憾。”Anyone can apply to become an honor guard, as long as the applicant does not have a criminal record and shares the ideals the institute promotes. But it can be a tough sell.任何人都可以申请加入仪仗队,只要申请者没有犯罪记录,且认同机构倡导的理念。但要招到人也并不容易。;Our store offers the kind of merchandise that doesn#39;t always find buyers,; Captain d#39;Atri said, admitting the difficulties he has had in increasing the guard#39;s ranks with like-minded people. ;We#39;re living in an increasingly global, consumerism-driven society. It#39;s not a place where strong sentiments and values prevail.;“我们的商店提供的商品并不总是能找到买家,”队长说,他承认寻找志同道合的人来壮大仪仗队面临很多困难。“我们生活在一个越来越全球化、受到消费主义驱动的社会。这不是一个强烈情感和价值观占上风的世界。”The institute is not affiliated with any political party, and is not a revanchist movement. But it has been campaigning — with petitions and support of parliamentary bills — to bury in the Pantheon the remains of the four Savoy family members who died outside Italy during the exile. They are buried in Egypt and France.该机构不附属于任何政党,也不是一个复仇主义组织。但它一直在呼吁——通过请愿以及对议会法案的持——把四名萨伏伊家族成员的遗骸埋在万神殿。后者在流亡期间死在异乡,目前葬在埃及和法国。;I think that most people with a sense of history would agree with our request,; Captain d#39;Atri said. So far, however, the bills have foundered in preliminary parliamentary commissions, suggesting the issue is not a priority.“我认为多数有历史观的人会持我们的请求,”达特里队长说。然而迄今为止,这些法案已经在初步的议会委员会受挫,后者表示该问题并非当务之急。Beyond any political questions, Captain d#39;Atri said, ;it#39;s like putting a photograph back into the family album.; Bringing the remains back to the Pantheon, he said, would be an ;act of reconciliation between those who voted for the republic and those who voted for the monarchy and their heirs — it#39;s underscoring that this history belongs to Italy.;达特里说,抛开政治上的疑虑不谈,“这就像是把一张照片重新放回家族的相册里。”他说,把他们的遗体送回万神殿,将是“共和国的持者与君主制及其后代的持者的一次和解——这是在强调这段历史属于意大利。” /201410/338015President Xi Jinping appeared at Saturday#39;s state banquet hosted by the Dutch royal family in a formal traditional Chinese suit, which experts say displayed the leader#39;s national pride and confidence in Chinese culture.3月22日,在荷兰王室举行的国宴上,习近平主席身着一套正式的传统中国饰,专家称这一举动展示了国家领导人的国家自豪感和对中国文化的自信力。The eye-catching dark blue suit, slim-cut with a standing collar, is a simplified and redesigned ;Zhongshan suit;, or ;Mao suit; - a typical formal garment for Chinese men.这套中山装是蓝黑色,立领精致剪裁,样式更加简洁,是对传统“中山装”的重新设计,非常吸人眼球。这是中国男性参加正式宴会的典型饰。Zhou Jiali, a diplomatic protocol expert from China Foreign Affairs University, said Xi#39;s attire not only meets international diplomatic norms, but also manifests China#39;s ethnic style.;President Xi#39;s outfit at the banquet is not strictly a Zhongshan suit, which normally has four pockets. Instead, it is a type of modified Chinese standing-collar outfit,; Zhou said in an interview with a Chinese newspaper.;The entire design goes with Chinese style, but some subtleties are tinged with a modern tailoring spirit. For example, a Western-style pocket square was designed at the left chest,; she said.周加李是来自外交学院的外交礼仪专家,她说习近平主席的穿着不但符合国际外交的标准,还具有典型的中国民族特色。在接受一家中国报社的采访时,说道:“习近平主席的饰不是标准的中山装,通常有四个口袋。相反,那是一套改良版的中式立领装。整个设计符合中国风格,但某些细节处又具有现代剪裁特色。比如,在左胸处设计了一个西式方形口袋。”Lu Peixin, former acting head of the Protocol Department of the Foreign Ministry, said the decorative color of Xi#39;s suit pockets matched the embroidery color of first lady Peng Liyuan#39;s traditional overcoat.;In addition to exhibiting the beauty of Chinese culture, the outfits of Xi and Peng also create a harmonious and vivid impression of a #39;lovers pack#39;,; Lu said.外交部前礼宾司代司长鲁培新说,习近平衣口袋上的装饰性色与夫人彭丽媛传统大衣上的刺绣颜色相得益彰。“除了展示中国文化之美,主席和夫人的饰搭配和谐,仿佛一套给人印象深刻的情侣装。”In the fashion world, the traditional qipao dress portrays a Chinese woman#39;s beauty, and Zhongshan suits represent a man#39;s status.时尚界认为,传统的旗袍展示中国女性之美,而中山装则代表男性的地位。;Foreigners will interpret the Zhongshan suit as a political symbol because it has typical Chinese connotations,; said associate professor He Yang at the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology.;It came out during a period when Western culture entered China in 1920. The Mao suit was a fusion of fashion and culture. It had an outline of a Western suit, but it had Chinese elements,; said Liu Yuanfeng, dean of BIFT.北京装学院副教授贺阳说:“外国人认为中山装是礼貌的象征,因为具有典型的中国内涵。“该学院院长刘元风说:“20世纪20年代西方文化传入中国时,中山装开始出现。中山装是时尚和文化的融合,有西式装的轮廓,但是又有中国元素。”The blue and gray suit was the only choice for Chinese men. It dominated local menswear from 1920 to 1980. That was why many people in the Western world thought China was a ;gray society;, because nearly all the men wore gray Zhongshan suits.中国蓝灰色的饰曾经是中国男性的唯一选择,1920-1980年,它主宰了中国的男装。因此,西方国家很多人认为中国是个“灰色的社会”,几乎所有中国男性都穿灰色的中山装。Chairman Mao Zedong popularized it, so the garment became known in the West as the ;Mao suit;.毛泽东主席使中山装流行起来,因此“毛装”在西方闻名。After the reform and opening-up in 1978, Chinese people had more choices in clothing, and Western suits became popular. With foreign fashion brands coming into the Chinese market, fewer and fewer local people were interested in the Mao suit and its connotations.1978年改革开放后,中国人民在饰方面有了更多的选择,西式装开始流行。随着外国时尚品牌涌入中国市场,越来越少的中国人对中山装感兴趣,也不再关注它的内涵。Even so, there are some older people who still own one or two Mao suits. Chinese leaders, including Deng Xiaoping and Jiang Zemin, continued to wear them on important occasions, such as the nation#39;s anniversary celebrations.即使这样,还是有些上了年纪的人仍然保留一两件中山装。包括邓小平和江泽民在内的中国领导人,出席重要场合,比如在国庆仪式上,仍继续穿中山装。BIFT#39;s Liu has seen a revival of the Mao suit over the past few years. He said there are many young designers and local fashion companies that want to popularize it again.北京装学院的院长在过去几年看到了中山装的复兴。他说有许多年轻的设计师和当地的时尚公司想使中山装重新流行起来。When then president Hu Jintao inspected the country#39;s defense forces in celebration of the 60th anniversary of the founding of the People#39;s Republic of China in 2009, he was wearing a gray Mao suit in Tian#39;anmen Square.The suit he wore has all the characteristic elements of a traditional Mao suit, but was designed in a Western style. It was slim cut in a three-dimensional way - a modern technique in fashion.2009年中华人民共和国建国60周年的庆典上,胡锦涛主席在天安门广场视察国防力量时,穿了件灰色的中山装。那件装具有传统中山装的所有元素,但设计具有西方风格,立体剪裁,独具现代时尚感。;It was a redesigned one. Modern Mao suits will become very popular during business occasions, as it looks formal and represents China,; said Xia Hua, chairwoman of Eve Enterprise Group, which was in charge of making Chinese leaders#39; clothes for the ceremony.依文集团总裁夏华女士负责庆典上国家领导人的饰,她说:“那套衣是对传统中山装的再设计。中山装在商业场合会变得非常流行,因为看起来很正式,还代表了中国的形象。” /201404/292268

One artist is changing the definition of a basic selfie by drawing herself into intricate cartoon scenes, using only an acrylic marker and her bathroom mirror.一位画家把自己画进了复杂的卡通故事情景中,其用具仅仅是有机玻璃麦克笔和她家浴室里的镜子,她改变了传统意义上的“自拍”。Helene Meldahl, 26, operates the inventive @Mirrorsme account, for which she draws interactive drawings on her bathroom mirror and then poses to make the resulting picture look as if she has stepped into a cartoon.26岁的海琳·迈尔达赫在网上注册了一个极富创造性的用户账号,@Mirrorsme。她在自己的浴室玻璃上画上交互式的图案,然后自己摆出相应的动作,结果画面看上去就好像她走进了卡通王国一般。Now hovering at an astonishing 75,000 followers, The Norwegian native’s project began a few years ago . One day she posed with the drawing and put it online – an image that received a lot of likes.这位来自挪威的姑娘现在拥有数量惊人的粉丝,人数大约在7万5千上下。她的这一涂鸦自拍项目数年前就开始了,记得有一天,她在自己画的图案前摆了个姿势,然后拍下来发到了网上——许多网友对这张照片点赞。 /201407/312352Women search high and low for a truly great guy. When I was in my teens, I thought I could have it all: the guy with the model looks, fabulous family, fantastic job, who knows his purpose in life and knows to automatically rub my feet when I get home from work.女人总是寻寻觅觅,期待遇到完美的白马王子。年轻时我就以为自己可以拥有一切:那个男人相貌英俊、家境殷实、工作体面;他不仅清楚自己的人生目标,还懂得在我下班回家后对我倍加呵护。Obviously, I had a quick wake-up call that the fairy tale I dreamed of didn’t exist! That didn’t mean I couldn’t have what I wanted, it just meant I had to reevaluate some of the qualities that I wanted my partner to have. Here are seven of the most important qualities women find attractive in men:显然,我很快被敲了一记警钟,意识到这种童话根本就不存在!当然,这并不表示我无法拥有自己渴望的东西,只是说明我应该重新考虑对另一半品质的期许。下面就是女人认为男人最有魅力的七大特质: /201403/280476

Attractive people are less likely to get tinnitus — and asthma, diabetes, and high blood pressure, according to new research.根据最新研究,相貌好看的人不太容易患上耳鸣、哮喘、糖尿病以及高血压。The more physically attractive men and women are rated, the more unlikely they are to suffer from a wide range of health problems, from high cholesterol to depression.外貌出众的人在高胆固醇、抑郁症等各种健康问题方面,患病几率都比较低。They also feel healthier, have less time off work and are diagnosed with fewer physical and mental health conditions during their lifetime.而且他们一辈子都能过得更健康,不太会请病假,并且身心健康方面也很少出状况。These extraordinary findings by U.S. researchers are based on a study of 15,000 men and women aged 24 to 35 who have been followed since they were ten.这一意外发现是由美国研究人员得出的。他们对15000位24-35岁的男女志愿者进行了从十岁时就展开的跟踪调查。It’s the biggest study yet to find links between attractiveness and good health, and the first to home in on a number of individual diseases.这是目前在发掘外貌与健康关系方面规模最大的一项调查,并且也是首个针对某些个别疾病的调查。The researchers, from the University of Cincinnati and other centres, point out that, until now, most studies have been on students.来自辛辛那提大学及其他中心的研究人员指出,到目前为止,大部分调查对象都还是学生。Their new research is based on interviews with a nationally representative sample of the U.S. population.他们的最新研究是基于对全美代表性个例的采访进行的。And, unlike earlier studies, this is based on the researchers’ ratings of the participants’ physical attractiveness done face-to-face, rather than assessments based on pictures, drawings or s.并且,不同于以往的是,这次调查中,研究人员对志愿者外貌的评价是面对面得出的,而不是通过照片、画像或视频。The researchers, whose work is being published in the journal Evolution And Human Behaviour, say that attractiveness may be a marker of good genes, which also signal good health, as well as increasing the likelihood of having healthy offspring.这项调查的结果已经发表在了《进化与人类行为》杂志上。相关研究人员表示,好相貌可能也是好基因的标志,这也意味着身体健康,以后生育的子女也会健康。The study involved face-to-face interviews and questionnaires, as well as an analysis of health data.调查形式有面对面采访和调查问卷,并且还对健康数据进行了分析。The men and women were quizzed about whether they had been diagnosed with various conditions or suffered symptoms of them.男女志愿者被问到身体是否出现过各种健康状况,或者显现过某些病症。Attractiveness rating was based on the assessment made by each interviewer after a 90-minute session.相貌评分则是由采访者在90分钟面谈后得出的。The men and women were put into five categories — very unattractive, unattractive, about average, attractive or very attractive.这些男女志愿者被分成了五类——非常丑、丑、一般、好看、非常好看。There were direct links between attractiveness and a number of health conditions, and the more attractive the person was rated, the lower the risk of ill-health.相貌和健康状况之间确实存在直接联系,越是长得好看的人,患病几率就越低。For each increase in the rating of physical attractiveness for men, there was a 13 per cent reduction in the likelihood of a diagnosis for high cholesterol, a 20 per cent drop in the risk of high blood pressure, a 15 per cent reduction in the probability of being diagnosed with depression, a 23 per cent decrease in the likelihood of an ADHD diagnosis, and a 21#8201;per cent lower likelihood of stuttering.男性的相貌评分每高一个等级,那么患高胆固醇的几率就会降低13%,患高血压的几率会降低20%,患抑郁症的概率可下降15%,患多动症的几率可下降23%,患上口吃的概率也要低21%。Women who were rated as more attractive were 21 per cent less likely to be diagnosed with high blood pressure, 22 per cent less likely to have diabetes, 12 per cent less likely to be asthmatic, 17 per cent less likely to suffer from depression, 18 per cent less likely to receive an ADHD diagnosis, 18 per cent less likely to stutter and 13 per cent less likely to have tinnitus.至于相貌好看的女性,患高血压的几率会降低21%,患糖尿病的几率则降低22%, 患哮喘的几率降低12%,患抑郁症的几率降低17%,患多动症的概率可减少18%,患口吃的概率也可减少18%,而且患耳鸣的几率能降低13%。Both the men and women who were rated as very physically attractive were also more positive about their own health and had fewer days off work due to illness.在相貌上都非常出众的男女志愿者对自身健康也更乐观,并且很少因病请假。They also had a reduced number of chronic disease diagnoses, of psychological disorders and of disease diagnoses overall.这类人患慢性病、出现心理失衡或其他各类疾病的概率也较低。The researchers suggest their findings support the theory that attractiveness is a marker of healthy genes.研究人员认为,这一发现可以印“好相貌是健康基因的标志”的理论。Meanwhile, previous research from Newcastle University in 2012 suggests that children rated as physically unattractive had poorer health by the age of 50.与此同时,先前纽卡斯尔大学在2012年的一项研究也发现,相貌较差的儿童到50岁时会遇到更多健康问题。Having a partner is known to have a beneficial impact on health, especially for men. According to the research, unattractive men were 7 per cent — and unattractive women 9 per cent — less likely to have a partner than attractive individuals.众所周知,尤其对男性而言,拥有伴侣能给身体健康带来益处。而这项研究发现,较之于长得好看的人而言,长得不好看的人更难找到伴侣——丑男人找伴侣要更困难7%,丑女人则是9%。Unattractive men also tend to have fewer children, and unattractive men and women are 4 per cent more likely to have no one with whom to discuss their problems.而且丑男人的子女也会更少。长得不好看的男女更难找到可以倾谈的人,并且这一比例要高出4%。Economist Dr Nils Braakmann, who led the study, said: ‘Ratings of physical attractiveness at age 11 influence health at age 50, even when considering a large variety of childhood conditions, with unattractive people generally faring worse.经济学家尼尔斯#8226;巴拉克曼是这项调查的负责人。他说:“11岁时的相貌评分能影响50岁时的健康状况。哪怕综合考虑各种童年情况,那些长得丑的人基本上也还是不受待见。”‘These results imply that individuals who are unattractive at an early age experience large welfare losses due to the way they’re treated by others.’“这些结论说明,由于不受待见,长得不好看的人从小就享受不到很多好处。”The fact that we rate certain features as more attractive may be driven by evolution — increasing the likelihood of having offspring.事实上,人们对好看外貌特征的评价可能也受到了人类进化的影响——这也增加了育后代的几率。For instance, long legs in women could be a visual clue of fitness for childbirth, with research at Gdansk University in Poland suggesting that taller women have wider pelvises, allowing easier births and larger birth-weight babies.举例而言,腿长的女性可能被认为适合生小孩。波兰格但斯克大学的研究表明,高个女性的骨盆更宽,那么也就更容易生育——尤其是个头大的婴儿。But Dr Viren Swami, er in psychology at the University of Westminster, suggests there may be other, non-evolutionary explanations for links between health and beauty.但是,威斯敏斯特大学心理学士威伦#8226;斯瓦密认为,健康与美貌之间的关系也可以通过“非进化论”的角度进行阐释。‘People think that “what is beautiful is good”, and we call this a halo effect,’ he says.“人们认为‘漂亮的就是美好的’,这就是光圈效应。”他说。‘Attractive people are perceived as having all kinds of wonderful, positive qualities, and seen as being happier, more popular, more successful, and so on.“长得好看的人会被认为具备各种美好积极的品质,比如更快乐、更受欢迎、更成功等等。”‘We also treat them more positively than less attractive people.“于是,人们对长相好看的人也会更加热情友善。”#39;We give them more social space [e.g., more time and understanding to achieve a task] and we are more likely to help them.“人们给长相好看的人更多社会空间,比如在完成任务时给他们更多时间和理解;人们也更愿意帮助长得好看的人。”#39;This being the case, it’s quite possible that the health benefits of being attractive are the result of this better treatment.“有鉴于此,那么,好相貌和好健康也可能是因为受到好待遇而产生的结果。”‘For example, attractive people are more likely to be hired, less likely to be fired, and receive a higher starting wage, so it’s possible that any health benefit is the result of their better occupational outcomes.“比如说,长得好看的人更容易找到工作、不太会被炒鱿鱼、起薪可能相对较高。所以,他们的良好健康也可能是职业发展顺利的结果。”‘Or, conversely, less attractive people may be less likely to use health-care services because they are concerned about being judged or stigmatised, as in the case of overweight or obese individuals, which obviously has a detrimental effect on their health.“反之,相貌不出众的人或许就不太去寻求保健务,因为他们担心自己被人指指点点,对超重或肥胖的人而言尤其如此;而且,这显然会对他们的健康造成重大影响。”‘So, the health benefit may be an indirect outcome of better treatment in societies that value attractiveness.“所以,好健康也可能是这个尊崇美貌的社会在优待相貌好看的人时所造成的间接结果。”#39;I’m not suggesting the evolutionary perspective is incorrect, only that it’s not the full explanation.’“这不是说进化论角度的阐释不正确,只是这个解释还有待完善吧。” /201409/325565

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